Tuesday, September 20, 2011

“alpha-alpha” … uh, bravo bravo?

Potatoes! Tomatoes! Cape Gooseberries!  Wedding food! Cyanide poisoning!  All these things are just part of life on the farm…
There are so many stories to tell from week one of my volunteering stint at South Farm in Royston, Herfordshire.  Firstly, though, our household goods arrived late Friday afternoon! It would’ve been nice to have more than one day to unpack before Chris flew to San Antonio and I made my way (granted, only 35 minutes down the road) to the farm for a fortnight (yes, that word is actually put to use here), but we are just really pleased that everything made it and so far seems to intact.  The house already feels way more like home now that we have our couches and bed.  We’ll eventually get around to hanging pictures and organizing bookshelves but aren’t really worried about those details quite yet. 
boxes stacked in the kitchen

Chris is really enjoying his pediatric short course so far and absolutely loves the 95+ degree weather down there in Texas.  I’m crossing my fingers that he’ll actually be on the plane next Sunday when I go to London to pick him up. 
It definitely feels more like autumn on the farm.  The weather has been about 65 degrees and sunny, which is pleasant for tasks like digging but a bit chilly when the rain suddenly comes down and soaks you to the bone (yep, happened Thursday).  Basically, South Farm is a gorgeous wedding venue with its own small orchard, about 6 acres of organically farmed crops that are mainly for the kitchen to use in the wedding food, huge flower and herb gardens, pigs (fewer now than when I started…), about 150 chickens, some runner ducks, a goose, white and traditional peacocks, and a few bee hives.  I’ve probably forgotten something, but the point comes across that it’s a pretty diverse little place.  I envy any wedding photographer that gets to work there!  Katherine was hooked up with them through a volunteer matching service and loved her time there earlier this summer, so I followed suit.   Bart, at the ripe old age of 25, is in charge of the entire veggie section of the farm and does almost all the prepping/seeding/sowing/weeding/cropping/watering/etc by his self, so he welcomes volunteers!  We’re working on a seeds and/or food for labor kind of deal for the rest of the year and I’m learning so much about what and how to plant around here it’s definitely a win-win situation. 


runner beans with the patio in the background



South Farm - the main house (400 yrs old!)




curious Angora goat

Angora goats



little spotted piggie scratching his own back on the tractor... very cute


I’m realizing that you have to be ruthless when farming.  Hacking off the majority of a tomato plant’s branches, trashing about 20 pots of gooseberries all of which still had some un-ripened fruit, and pulling up eggplants that were still producing was distressing!  But I’m told the tomatoes will produce better fruit, we needed more space in the greenhouses to start new pea and bok choy crops, and the eggplants needed pulling to make room for the carrots for next years’ spring weddings.  Even something as simple as harvesting green beans took some getting used to:  At first I’d grab each bean individually, hold the rest of the plant, and gently twist off the bean.  HA.  After an hour that technique gave way to grabbing a handful of mostly beans with some leaves and yanking them off into the basket.  Way more efficient! 
seed tray of Bok Choy


the (newly organized) greenhouse


Golden Crown tomatoes- my absolute favorite


Alfafla (read: alpha alpha) green manure :D

Most of Tuesday and Wednesday were spent harvesting the Picasso and King Edward potatoes.  The potato field actually looked unused because it had been over-planted with green manure called “alpha alpha” (for full comedic effect you have to say it out loud) which I only later realized was a different pronunciation of alfalfa.  Ha!  Anyway, we harvested the potatoes by dragging a digger-thing behind the tractor, then hopping off to grab whatever potatoes came to the surface, then repeating the process over and over.  Comedic relief was in the next paddock over, when one of the angora goatswould start head-butting the piggies, which doesn’t hurt them at all but makes them oink and yell and generally verbalize their displeasure.  After six hours there weren’t any more potatoes surfacing, so we called it a day (PS, my back was ridiculously sore) and left the potatoes to dry in the sun.  (I tossed a few damaged ones to the pigs because I felt sorry for them.) The next day we sorted the potatoes by size and variety and weighed them.  Final weight was more than half a ton!
Picasso Potatoes

I bet most people reading this have glazed eyes by now, so let’s talk about the dangers of vegetables… dun, dun, dunnnnnnn.  Did you know that raw lima beans (aka butter beans) break down and produce cyanide in your gut? Crazy!  Bart gave himself a nasty case of cyanide poisoning last year by throwing some raw beans into his soup and not cooking them enough.  I had no idea of this lima bean danger – is it common knowledge to everyone except Bart and myself?  It seems like such an important little tidbit…
Friday morning I helped Andy with the chickens.  These chickens have it good – they have a huge pen with trees on one side (chickens like to roost in low tree branches) and a field on the other.  We threw a bunch of feed and some beet leaves down (tasty chicky treat) and then Andy taught me how to avoid getting pecked while stealing the chicken eggs literally out from under the hens.  Against all odds, the first egg I collected was a ‘rubber egg’, an exceedingly rare occurrence when the egg shell doesn’t develop at all and you’re left with something that feels like a tough little water balloon.  Eww.  I didn’t really know what to think when I grabbed it… maybe it was just so fresh that the shell hadn’t hardened yet?  (That was my naivety – the eggs should come out hard.) The 78 other eggs collected were all quite normal.  I took home a half-dozen of these eggs and I swear the yolks are almost a florescent orange.  Weird! 
so mean looking!


feeding the chickens

Friday we had a meeting with the kitchen about what we needed to harvest for the weekend’s weddings.  The math made my head spin!  We set out to collect the 300 beet roots, 150 carrots, 80 leeks, 10 kg potatoes, 10 kg tomatoes, and 4 kg of fennel that would go into the guests’ dinner.  This farm thing is a lot of work!  Luckily for me I get to eat amazing leftover wedding food and/or whatever I want to grab from the fridge or pantry or garden.   
There are so many other stories but I'll save them for another day.   If I’ve learned nothing else, it’s that growing food can be insanely hard work. 

Goodnight!  Watch out for lima beans! 
Claire (and Chris)

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Dino's & Donkeys

Well, falling asleep in a tent while listening to the loud braying of donkeys wouldn’t normally be easy (or thinkable really), but after hiking for 6+ hours a day it was effortless!  This past Labor Day weekend Chris and I drove about four hours to the southwest coast of England to hike a little bit of England’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site: the Jurassic Coast.  It’s named as such because its 95 miles of rocks depict 185 million years of the Earth’s history. The Jurassic Coast Path is a tiny section of the Southwest Coast Path (http://www.southwestcoastpath.com/); an epic version of one of the awesome English footpaths I love that literally traces the coast 630 miles around the southwest tip of England. 

On this map we hiked from Exmouth almost to Lyme Regis.


SW Coast Path signage


Sidmouth boardwalk (see the red cliffs in the background? We hiked those!)


Chris looking out over the next few hills we'd have to climb.


We started on the most Western part of the Jurassic Coast in a town called Exmouth, where red cliffs drop off steeply to the ocean’s edge. The cliffs are 250+ MILLION years old, from the Triassic period.  Trekking east on the Jurassic Coast's  95 miles, the rock morphs from the Triassic to Jurassic and then Cretaceous periods.   (Forgotten earth sciences?  That’s the entire Mesozoic Era.)  We didn’t make it all 95 miles in one weekend, so saw mostly the 250 million year old Triassic rock formed under desert conditions (hence not very much organic material so the iron oxidizes and turns red in color.)  

Chris suggested an 'alternate route' along the beach for a few miles...

... I should've vetoed because that alternate route required a rope to get down to the beach...

... at the bottom, Chris points out the light colored bands that indicate periods of deposition in the presense of plant life...

... ugh, walking along the beach wasn't easy because it was made of (fairly large) rocks instead of sand...

.... almost three miles of walking on these (the whole ground gives when you step on them) was tough on the legs!...
...weird clay-like clifs that release all the pebbles/rocks that make up the beach...
.... rocks hanging out of the cliff, ready to fall and make our hike even more difficult...


...dang, we didn't even realize!...





Can you see Chris up on the top there?  Look at all the 'landslips' (landslides) at the water's edge.

Erosion works away the softer rock and leaves the free-standing pillars.


We saw some chalk cliffs from the Cretaceous Period as well – they’re the white ones in some of the photos below.  Next time we trek to the southwest we’re definitely going “hunting” in the Jurassic rock farther east… apparently it’s full of fossils! 
Looking a bit rough...

Typical English countryside.

The trail doesn't stay at sea level, rather goes up and down over the cliffs and hills!


Oh yeah, getting braver!!

White Cretaceous rocks in Beer.  Luckily there were towns like this one along the way that let us take 'pint breaks'...


You can't go hungry along the trail - we always seem to talk about the blackberries but here are some photos that put it in perspective:


Blackberry bushes all along the trail.

Yummy.


We camped near Sidmouth for the weekend.  Our campsite just so happened to be next to the UK Donkey Sanctuary.  I swear the donkeys got louder as night fell… they make some funny noises.  We were freezing, too!  Labor Day and the low was in the 40's... hope all you people that got to spend the weekend on the lake are enjoying the heat for all of us!     

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Life's a beach

We're making friends and getting connected!  Two fantastic ladies from the St. Ives Cycle Club (about 10 minutes away from Brampton) took me along on a 20 mile road bike ride this past Saturday morning, giving me tips on dodging potholes and coddling me through the scary round-abouts.  It felt amazing to be on a bike again! The St. Ives CC have regular 40-60 mile rides every Sunday that we’ll surely take a part in if we’re ever in town…

Map of historical English counties
Chris had an away match at King’s Lynn (in Norfolk: middle right on the map above) that Saturday afternoon so after my ride we headed north an hour towards the coast. He’s finally a bit settled with the whole soccer thing, playing center mid or sweeper for the Huntingdon reserve team and enjoying the level of play and the guys on the team.  It is really quality football and fun to watch even though I have to pay.  The only part that really gets me is watching half the team “warm up” and “cool down” (their words) with a cigarette!  Their coach is lighting them, so I guess he doesn’t care… Ah well, not everyone has the same thoughts on conditioning! 
Chris in the middle with his bright yellow shoes : )
After the game  (ouch, they lost 4 to 1... maybe they should put down the Marlboros) we jumped back in the car and continued a half-hour farther north to the town of Holkham near Wells-next-the-Sea (what a sweet name) which is known for its gorgeous beach.  The beach is part of a nature reserve, so although you can take your dogs, coolers, blankets, etc the area feels quite remote.  There are no houses or hotels or cheesy vendors… just a huge expanse of beach three miles long and at least a half mile wide.  If the weather had been 20+ degrees warmer we’d have stayed the rest of the weekend!  It’s only an hour and a half from the house so I’m sure we’ll be returning regularly. 
Double rainbow from the beach parking lot.


Holkham Beach, Norfolk

Holkham Beach, Norfolk

Holkham Beach, Norfolk

Dinner at the Victoria Hotel in Holkham was almost as good as the beach itself. The food was excellent - lobster, salmon, halibut, gazpacho, crème brule- and beautifully presented. And it came with a laugh.  I almost spit out my champagne as I overheard this little tidbit from the next table over (imagine this in a strong British accent): “it’s called a chicken biscuit.  Basically it’s like a scone but sweeter and deep friend… and then there’s a piece of fried chicken in the middle… it’s delish. Then there were ribs, this sort of massive rack of them that you just pull apart and gnash with your teeth.”  Ha!  We had to ask where they had been.  One of them had just taken a trip to Atlanta, Mobile, and Memphis.  I just wouldn't have imagined pork ribs and chicken biscuits topping this (very well-off) woman’s culinary adventure through America.  Love it! 
On the way home Chris got a message from an AF soccer buddy who said he was stuck in England for a few days.  He's a pilot and told us a crazy story about how they had taken two cranes (birds), one to each engine on one side of his jet, on takeoff in Sweden that morning.  Yikes!  Scary for him, but nice for Chris because we got to hang out on with Jason on Sunday!
Well, customs must think we’re more interesting than we truly are, because they’re still holding our stuff hostage.  Dang, man, just release our comfy couch, the camelbacks, the king bed, and our kitchen stuff.  Keep the rest, I don’t even care anymore!  One good thing has come out of the wait, though.  I’ve almost caught up on two years’ worth of scrapbooking.  LOL.  Two years in 10 days is a personal record that I hope never to top.  It made me remember how much fun stuff we've done over our time in Little Rock... we have and continue to be so, so blessed. 
Well, time for a spot of tea.  Hugs and love, Claire (and Chris)

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Corgettes, Rocket, and Abergine (?!)

England and the USA were famously described by Winston Churchill (or was it  George Bernard Shaw?) as "two nations divided by a common language".  In MY English, the title above would say “Zucchini, Arugula, and Eggplant”.  Its weird to have to translate (from English to English!) the awesome garden book my cousins gave me. 
Chris is going to be gone for two weeks in September doing a pediatric dentistry short course in Texas so instead of moping around here by myself, I’m volunteering at the farm that Katherine worked at this summer. It’s a working organic fruit/veg and animal farm that’s also a wedding venue.   Admittedly, my motives are a little selfish because I’m trying to glean knowledge before attempting a massive garden of my own next spring.  The soil here is rich and black and a garden seems like a great way to get some organic veggies (earning my lost income?) while at the same time keeping me from going stir-crazy.  The problem is as I get more and more bored my garden plans become more and more ambitious.  The backyard is big, and don’t we NEED artichokes?  40 ears of corn?  Enough basil to make everyone in Brampton a jar of pesto?  
There are so many new plants around here to exploit, too!  Take this little purple berry:
Katherine and I kept seeing these berries on our countryside rambles so I took a bite of one.  Two bits of good news: it wasn’t poisonous, and Katherine found out it’s used to make a special, very English liquor.  If we can figure out how to safely ship bottles of liquor you’re all getting drinkable Christmas presents.  Has boredom turned me into Martha? Is anyone else scared?
Katherine just left us after almost two weeks.  Booo!!! I really miss her company, cooking ideas, and watching the Chris vs. Katherine political debates.  LOL.  We  didn’t have a TV this whole month, so that counted as quality entertainment.  We kept baking our butts off (or on?) but in full disclosure, failed miserably on one thing: making yogurt (yoghurt).  We managed to ‘make’ a couple gallons of spoiled milk over the course of her stay here, but never ended up with the good stuff.  Sigh.  Guess she’ll have to come back J

Walking

"Chris, go pick some apples"

People have repeatedly asked about the riots that happened last week.  Yes, there were some big time riots and some people were very sadly killed.  I know absolutely nothing more about them than any of you, though.  Here in our sleepy town we’re much more likely to get run over by an electric wheelchair than involved in a riot so it seems as surreal to us as watching a riot in LA when you live on the East Coast.  Yes, I can see it on the TV but no, it doesn’t affect us day-to-day.  People around here blame the riots on a poor economy combined with a lack of parenting and weak family structure.  Pretty sure the US would also welcome solutions to those particular problems…
On a much lighter note, one of our biggest joys has been using Skype to talk to our parents and nephew Wyatt.  Everyone with kids, a nephew or niece, or whatever knows exactly what I’m talking about – Skype let us see Wyatt’s first haircut (tear!), let  us watch him do a puzzle, demolish some blocks, and made us laugh when he tried to hand us a toy through the screen.  Thank you, thank you Skype!  Also thank you to the Facebook guys and girls for keeping  us connected and allowing us to see photos of houses being built (at astonishing speeds, Lunsfords!), of babies getting ever cuter (too many to mention), and of couples starting to plan their weddings (congrats David and Jamie!)  I have to insert a plug for one of my old Seattle buddies http://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-himi-bosworth-20110731,0,5626887.story who actually created Facebook’s Newsfeed (no joke).  I used to hate it, Boz, but now truly feel like it’s the thing that most makes me feel a part of the everyday life of some of my friends. 
We should probably remember all our blessings right now and not get so frustrated by the little things that go wrong, and the little differences with culture, work, etc that make everyday life a bit more difficult than in Arkansas.  General rule: everything is easier, faster, and less frustrating in the US, God bless it.
All our household goods should arrive and will hopefully clear customs next week, YAY, so hopefully the settling will begin in earnest. Here’s to hoping the rest of our things arrive in better shape than the sledge hammered (best guess) TV.
And now for a little tour of our town, Brampton (these photos are all of the main street):
A house on the main street whose dahlia garden I adore.

The butcher (his hours are "when I'm here")

Newly re-thatched roof.

Our fish & chips place.

The co-op grocery store on the corner of our street.



Lots of ivy.

Cute house.

One of three Brampton pubs - the Black Bull

Love the flowers!